Textiles - back in the mainstream
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Fighting the good fightOn a sectoral basis, liberalizing trade in textile and clothing has been a
challenge facing the GATT for some years. Creating an Agreement to phase out
quantitative restraints on textiles and clothing was one of the longest and
hardest-fought issues in the GATT. However, as a result of the Uruguay Round,
it is now a challenge facing the WTO. Trade in this sector is now going through
fundamental change under a 10-year schedule to phase out quantitative
restrictions.

Outside the systemThis means that the system of discriminatory import quotas that has
dominated textile trade since the early 1960s is being phased out. By 1974 until
the end of the Uruguay Round, trade in textiles and clothing was governed by
the Multifibre Arrangement (MFA). The MFA was a framework for bilateral
agreements or unilateral actions that was a derogation from the rules of the
GATT.

The MFA ... a derogation The bilateral agreements came in the form of quotas limiting imports from
developing countries into the markets of developed countries. Industries in
developed countries were facing serious damage from rapidly increasing imports.
The quotas were the most visible feature of the MFA. They conflicted with the GATT's
general preference for customs tariffs instead of measures that restrict
quantities. They were also exceptions to the GATT principle of treating all
trading partners equally: in fact, they specified how much the importing
country was going to accept from individual developing countries.

Back in the mainstreamBy 2005, the sector is to be fully integrated into normal GATT rules. In
particular, the quotas will come to an end. Importing countries will no longer
be able to discriminate between exporters. The Agreement on Textiles and Clothing
will itself no longer exist. In fact, it is the only WTO agreement that has self
destruction built in.

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